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| "Arkansas' Voice on the Internet" | Features / Special Sections |
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Restaurant review: Gypsy's Grill & Bar Jack SchnedlerArkansas Democrat-Gazette
Faced with a gradual decline in Alouette's business, Seyer turned Little Rock's last elegant French restaurant into Gypsy's Grill & Bar two years ago. His renamed eatery served "casual world cuisine" on plastic-coated tablecloths with cutlery rolled up cafeteria-style in napkins. The menu initially included meatballs and hamburgers. The young waiters were apt to address diners as "you guys." Now white linen spreads a stylish sheen over the plum-colored plastic that Gypsy's wore at birth. Knives and forks are properly laid at each place setting. The bar's whirling tropical-drinks machine, which mixed such concoctions as Frozen Pain Killers, has been packed away. Chateaubriand With Sauce Escoffier, a classic French beef tenderloin for two, is back on the menu. The service is generally more polished and attentive. "Basically we've gone back to being Alouette's," says Seyer, a prime player in the area's dining scene since his tour of kitchen duty in the mid-'70s at the fabled Jacques & Suzanne. The Gypsy's name will stay, he adds, "because it would be too confusing to change again." Asked why Alouette's has de facto resurfaced, Seyer says that "people would keep coming in asking for the same old stuff. And that's the kind of cooking I want to do." The souffles, ethereal as before, returned to the menu about a year ago, "by popular demand. Hardly a night would go by without somebody asking for them." One source of concern for budget-minded diners is the evident upward creep of Gypsy's prices -- although Seyer asserts they are still lower than in Alouette's final years. When my wife, Marcia, and I dined twice at Gypsy's in April 2003, the tab averaged $74 for the two of us. When we again ate anonymously this month, the average on two evenings was $116. All four occasions included appetizers, main courses, desserts and a bottle of wine (with pricier wines accounting for only $10 of the $32 per-dinner rise). That cost caveat aside, food quality -- the heart and soul of any restaurant -- continues to rank with the best in central Arkansas, as was always true at Alouette's and likewise from the outset at Gypsy's. A Seyer signature dish, listed with no false modesty as "The Best Lobster Bisque in the World" ($5.99), maintains its silken whole-cream richness. Another stalwart appetizer, Alouette's Famous Crab Cakes ($7.99), is as tasty as ever with its red pepper mayonnaise. The restaurant's excellent Web site displays the entire food menu and wine list, including specials (some of them more or less permanently on offer). This time around, all four of our first courses drew praise from both sides of the table as we exchanged bites. The best, by mutual consent, was the inventive Smoked Duck Breast Caesar Salad With Toasted Almonds ($7.99). Fried Calamari With Aioli Sauce ($6.99) showcased crisp, tender squid. Steamed Mussels Mariniere ($5.95) paired plump bivalves with a subtly flavored broth. Alouette's Salad ($6.89), a Seyer perennial, was its usual work of loving care graced by avocado and Roquefort cheese. Two main courses stood out. My Zuppa di Pesce ($29.99, the most expensive menu item) arrived as a bountiful rendition of the Italian-style seafood stew, starring both halves of a decent-size Maine lobster tail. Playing flavorful supporting roles were tilapia, mussels, shrimp, scallops and squid. Extra-virgin olive oil and white wine buoyed the herb-infused broth, while toasted Ciabatta bread added a grace note. Marcia's Seabass With Lobster Bearnaise ($21.99) merited the menu's cheerleading notation: "Our Specialty, Great Dish!" Standing out was the divinely decadent richness of the sauce -- typical of Seyer's handiwork, and either a virtue or a vice depending on your dietary regimen. Our other entrees, richly sauced Maine Lobster Ravioli ($19.79) and Grilled Mahi-Mahi With Mango Salsa ($15.99), earned thumbs-ups as well. Diners unwilling to make the order-at-start-of-meal commitment to the souffles or hot fruit tarts can confidently opt later for the sinful Chocolate Tart With Jamaican Rum Ice Cream ($5.29) or the estimable Creme Brulee ($4.29). Gypsy's Espresso ($2.50) is robust and properly trimmed with a curl of lemon peel. The only service flaw during our two recent meals was a waiter's failure to notice that I had no cutlery when he set down my Maine Lobster Ravioli. He then disappeared for several minutes, prompting my resort to self-service by procuring a knife and fork from a neighboring empty table. Had the restaurant been fuller, my move might have created a stir. In one regard, Gypsy's remains as when it opened in April 2003. Unchanged is the brighter decor created by the remodeling, which lends a more cheerful tone to dinner than Alouette's subdued and somewhat somber interior. Retained in the 2003 makeover, and now emblematic of Seyer's turn back toward his past, are the large floral designs cut into the glass partition separating the dining areas from the bar. They're fleurs-de-lis, a traditional symbol of the French royal family. This review was published Friday, April 29, 2005 Copyright, permissions and privacy policy Copyright © 2005, Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, Inc. All rights reserved. This document may not be reprinted without the express written permission of Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, Inc. |
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